LETTER TO JANE

Posts Tagged ‘2010’

Interview with Washed Out

 Interview with Washed Out

It wouldn’t be too much of a stretch to say that Washed Out was one of the biggest buzz bands of 2009. Out of nowhere Washed Out’s EP Life of Leisure was being talked about everywhere. First the blogs carried him, then Twitter and Facebook, and then the big boys like New York Times and Rolling Stone were calling him a rising star. Everyone seemed to get wrapped up in this EP that they forgot there was a person behind this great music. Washed Out is the creation of one man, Ernest Greene, whose eclectic interests and styles came together to make a set of music that could be pop and fun as well as serious and atmospheric. What I love about Greene’s music is that while some bands last year became famous by association I felt, Greene’s music stood on it’s own. While the kid’s in the city are partying to his jams Greene is probably at home in rural Georgia, working on his craft. To be honest I wasn’t sure what to expect going into this interview, I always viewed Washed Out’s music to be a kind of shield, a way for him to keep his privacy. What I found out is that Greene is a very humble and laid back guy that I’d love to have a beer with and just talk music with. This is definitely one of my favorite interviews that I’ve done and I’m thrilled to have it be a part of the next issue of Letter to Jane Magazine.

ERNEST GREENE: Hello, is this Tim?

Ya hello, how are you today?

ERNEST GREENE: Good, it’s kind of raining here, but that’s alright.

It’s raining here too, but I’m in Oregon so that’s not really a surprise. Well I’ll just get to it so you can enjoy your rainy day.

ERNEST GREENE: (laughs) Ok, sounds good.

Are you still unsigned, or are you connected to a label these days?

ERNEST GREENE: I’m still unsigned. I’ve been talking with a handful of labels about the next record and I’ve started working on new material, but I felt like there wasn’t a big hurry, especially when I’m about to go on tour in March. It just makes more sense to wait till after the tour to see where I’m at then.

So there’s new music on the way?

ERNEST GREENE: Ya, I’ve been making new music for the past month I guess. It’s kind of a slow process because this project is still pretty new, and I’m still figuring out what I’m going for and what I’m best at. So nothing right now, but I’m hoping to finish something as soon as possible and get it out as soon as possible. The whole promotional schedule, where let’s say I finish something, and then it takes 3 or 4 months till it gets an official release is really frustrating for me because generally I like to work on new material. Odds are that in 4 or 5 months from now I’ll be working on something entirely different, so that’s frustrating but that’s how it goes.

I’ve seen that happen a lot when I helped produce for an indie label. They’d hold a product for a couple months, and by that time we were all into something extremely different, and yet we’d have to go back and promote this old stuff that we weren’t excited about anymore.

ERNEST GREENE: Ya see I guess I understand when you go by the old school methods of print magazines and big things like that where they take a while, but I feel that now things move so quickly with Twitter and stuff, that it’s not that big of a deal. I mean people will know the record is coming out, and you can always come up with all these different schemes to build up hype for it. My situation is kind of an exception because I never thought it out or had those intentions; it kind of all fell in my lap. I’ve done a couple interviews where people ask me for recommendations about how to promote and sell and I just tell them I have no idea. It’s just complete luck that I am where I’m at right now.

You sure gained a lot fans quick. Is there anyone out there that you know who’s a fan that made you go, “Wow that guy likes me?”

ERNEST GREENE: (laughs) There have been a few, kind of “what the fuck?” moments out there. This is really early on in the beginning when a lot of the attention was going on, someone sent me a link to Ricky Martin’s Twitter page where he had wrote about how he liked one of the songs. It was one of the oddest things, but I guess he’s an avid blog reader or something so that was pretty funny. A friend told me once that Ashton Kutcher also wrote a thing about my music as well. Those are just a few of the odd ones. There are some people that I really look up to that I’ve been in contact with, so that’s been really cool. It’s definitely a surreal feeling. I guess I’m getting more used to it now, but it’s been pretty strange.

(laughs) I never would have guessed you were going to say Ricky Martin.

ERNEST GREENE: Ya I found it pretty odd, but who knows, maybe one day I’ll get to meet him.

I was reading yesterday about Swizz Beats sampling Justice for that track on Blueprint 3.

ERNEST GREENE: Ya I saw that…

So I was wondering if there’s any producer out there that you’d like to sample you?

ERNEST GREENE: Oh wow that’s a good question. There have been a handful of remixes where they did something similar to what he did in that song, where they took small samples and built up around it, but not like any hip hop groups. Most of the time it’s mashups, where it’s just 4 bar loops and they just drop an a cappella on top of it. I don’t know, let’s think about that one… maybe the Neptunes. I love their stuff but they’re really not into sampling.

I definitely love hip-hop, that was a big influence when I starting making music on my computer and sampling.

I thought it was really subtle and clever how he (Swizz Beats) did that song. I forget what the original words were in the Justice song but he cut it up and made it say something completely different. You can definitely see the connection when you put the two side by side.

Ya I know, I never made the connection till I read that article, then it was so obvious. This sort of leads to my question about your drums. It seems like your drums usually get overlooked when people talk about Washed Out, which is a shame because your drums are great. Is that because of your hip-hop background?

ERNEST GREENE: Definetly. You know, some people’s style is to really mix it up and have a lot of little drum fills and make it as complex as they can, but I’ve never really been into that. For the most part the beats have always been really simple, but always very important. I would say until the last couple years it was mostly instrumental stuff, so the beats were even more in the forefront and even more important. With the Washed Out stuff it’s mostly just “kick, snare, kick, snare,” you know, nothing really complex at all, but the sound is really important to me. I compress a lot and that gives it a distinct sound.

What’s your typical setup like? Are you using Reason or something like that?

ERNEST GREENE: Ya I’m using Reason and Cubase, which is a bit of an older program. I use Cubase for tracking vocal and live instruments and also for cutting up any samples I’d use. Then I transport all that into Reason, arrange everything. Then I add in some synths to make some melodies, bass lines, and beats. So ya, most of the work is done in Reason and that’s pretty much it. I have a couple little keyboards that I use on occasion, but mostly I just use the computer.

The beauty of software is that you can move pretty quickly from idea to having at least a rough draft recorded. That’s what I’ve been doing lately, not necessarily writing demos, but coming up with song ideas so that I can move really fast, which is exciting. I’ve definitely gotten used to working in that style and I think it would be really hard to move away to another software program, or even doing it the old school way of micing up instruments. It just takes so long and I’m pretty impatient with all that.

Since it’s so easy to translate your ideas into songs and you’re know for having these really simplified melodies…

ERNEST GREENE: Ya that’s definitely what I go for…

But can you start out simple or is it more of an editing process? I know when I used to make music in Reason I’d get all my ideas out, and end up with like 20 instruments on a track.

ERNEST GREENE: That is exactly what it was like early on when I first started using the program, I was the same way. I believe the virtual mixer on Reason has like 14 different tracks on each mixer and I would have 3 or 4 mixers on each project, which is a lot of tracks. I guess I was never that great at mixing down to where that many tracks would make sense. 3 years ago I was really into that Caribou album Up in Flames. It’s a great album and there’s just so many things going on at once. The guy used like a 1000 tracks on the album, and I was trying to achieve that but it just never worked, it sounded like shit; there was just too much going on. So I kind of figured out that if I limit myself and think more about what’s really essential for the song and how things compliment each other then it makes for a stronger song. I really try to limit myself to just one of those mixers, so like 14 tracks, and in most cases it’s 14 or under. I start with a bass line and a vocal melody and make sure I can get that as strong as possible. It’s all about adding a few layers of texture, and just simple little stuff that will compliment the melody and that’s it.

Would you say you’re a pretty consistent songwriter, or does it come in waves with the occasional drought?

ERNEST GREENE: It definitely comes in waves, and it’s impossible to predict. When I was writing Life of Leisure it came pretty quick, with everything I would sit down to work on would get me pretty excited. I guess now my mindset has changed a little bit. I don’t know if it’s just that I’m in a different situation where there’s a lot expectation and somewhat of a deadline. There’s this feeling that I’ve got to do something fairly quick, so it’s been a bit harder of a process. I also edit myself a lot more to really hold out for something strong, and just brush aside something that’s just not working immediately. In the past I would work a song or at least an idea every day, and then in a week one song would really stand out that was good, and I would work on that. A song a week is pretty good I think.

I would say that’s a very good pace.

ERNEST GREENE: Now that’s slowed down a bit. I have maybe 6 to 8 pretty strong ideas. In some cases though, the hard thing about making an album is that everything has to work together. So one song on one side of the spectrum isn’t going to work well with another song on the other side of spectrum, so I’ve had to edit while thinking in that context.

I read that in the beginning of all this you weren’t interested in performing live, but now it looks like you’re performing live fairly regularly, so what’s changed?

ERNEST GREENE: There were a couple reasons why I wasn’t too excited about playing live in the beginning. One was that I’ve never really performed live before. Any recording project I’ve done has been just myself in my bedroom as kind of a hobby. I have friends who are in bands and I’d always consider about performing live, but the right situation never came along. Songs to me are just better to listen to on some headphones, not just me standing up there by myself. So that was one reason I wasn’t too excited, and then factor in that people expect some kind of professionalism when you reach a certain level, and that was a bit intimidating. The other reason was that I just got married and I wasn’t really psyched about touring for 4-6 months or more. However, I do think it’s great on one level where you’re traveling and seeing the world, which is something that I’ve started to embrace with these tours coming up. I’m really excited to get out and travel and play the shows, but I’ve been up front with all the labels that I’ve talked with that I don’t think I’ll ever be that kind of band. I just felt like I should take advantage of this opportunity and go to Europe or whatever. And the place I’m in right now, yes I just got married, but I don’t have any kids, so there isn’t much holding me back. I’ve had a pretty good amount of time to rehearse and come up with some good stuff for the live shows. I think it will be pretty intense at the beginning because I am still pretty new to it, but after performing every night for 30 days I should hopefully kind of get the hang of it.

Are the live performances changing your writing process at all? When you’re making music do you think “Man, it would be easier live if I made it like this…”

ERNEST GREENE: It really hasn’t changed the way I work. I can usually tell early on when it’s going to be a live song that will work. I’ve really been thinking about this for the tour in March. I’m trying to get away from having the majority of the song happen on the backing track and moving towards building the track on stage with loops and stuff so I’ll be playing more, which I think will be more entertaining and more fun for me. So I’ve definitely thought about when I’m writing about just keeping things really simple. I’m going to try to keep things relatively upbeat because I’m not a big fan of going to see a show and just stand there with my arms crossed. Sometimes that can be cool to have those heady atmospheric parts, but my favorite stuff has a little bit of both.

Ya I know what you mean I went to a hip-hop show not too long ago, and it was nothing but arms crossed all serious and mean muggin and it just looked like no one enjoyed anything.

ERNEST GREENE: (laughs) Ya you might as well just be sitting in your house smoking a joint with a really great sound system. I’m sure that would be much more entertaining if you’re going to be like that.

Since you have a background in so many different genres, if you wanted to do more of a rock album would you keep it under the Washed Out name or would that be a different side project?

ERNEST GREENE: Ya actually before I was doing the Washed Out stuff I was doing more of a rock thing called Lee Weather. So I had about 5 or 6 songs and I wanted to try to make something out of it, but it never really worked out. I’m thinking about doing a small run of 7” because I have a little online store, and all of this stuff has been pretty small numbers so it’s all sold out rather quickly. Also, it’s going to be awhile till this next record comes out so I’ve been thinking I’m going to do something with those tracks. There’s been some interest with a few labels that have heard some of it, but I think I might just go ahead and do it myself, it’s just easier that way. Anyways the sound and vocals are pretty similar to Washed Out where there’s a lot reverb and vocal harmonies, but it sounds like a rock band with the drums, guitar, and bass; that’s at the heart of it. It’s really fun when I get burned out working with synths; it’s fun to work with something completely different, it’s refreshing. I’ve written maybe two new Lee Weather songs this past month that just came about at random. Generally they work out really good when I’m not trying to write a hit but just playing around.

I’ve heard you describe yourself as a pretty stubborn person when it comes to making music, has that changed at all?

ERNEST GREENE: I’ve reached out a little bit to people; that’s another thing I want work on for the new album. I want to mix things up a bit. I don’t want the same vocal sound on every song, or ya know, a copy of one song on five other songs. I’ve reached out to a couple of musicians and sent them some songs. I’m trying to work it where someone could sing a melody or sing a part of a song, and I think it might work out but it’s really hard. In most cases these people are busy doing their own thing, and some people don’t have the means to just sit down and record a vocal part. I hope it works out, but I really don’t know how it would work. I am really stubborn in most situations where I’ve sat down with someone else and tried to write a song; it’s just been a disaster. It might be something like I haven’t sat down with the right people or something, but in most situations it just seems like nothing gets done. It will be like one person will be playing a riff, and then they won’t budge from that, and then another person is playing a different riff, and it just doesn’t work. I don’t if you’re familiar with Toro Y Moi?

Oh ya I think he’s really going to blow up this year.

ERNEST GREENE: Ya, we’re really good friends, I used to live in Colombia where he still lives, and we had a little project for a week. Someone asked us to do a show only a week in advance so we sat down and wrote 8 or 9 songs, and even that was really frustrating and he’s a great musician. He can come up with a hundred different ideas for whatever you’re playing, but ya even that was frustrating for me. I don’t know, I guess I should be more flexible, but we’ll see how that will work in the future. Maybe I’ll bring some more people in.

You still live a fairly rural lifestyle and you’re not tied down to any label or deadline. Do you view those things as ways to keep the control over your music?

ERNEST GREENE: Ya, I got married in October, and before that we didn’t really have any plans about where we wanted to be. I guess the music was taking off at that point but we really weren’t sure where we’d be 6 months down the road. I was living in a really small town called Perry Georgia, which is about 20 minutes from where I’m living now in Macon. It’s a little bit larger but it’s still a pretty small place, and we did that for a couple reasons. One of them was that I kind of wanted to be away from all the hype and the hoopla. I think moving to someplace like New York would be just too much to deal with and I wouldn’t get any work done. That’s kind of just the way I’ve always been, I’m pretty shy, and I’m a bit of a homebody. I would rather just like to stay at home and do my own thing, and work on my little projects. We’ve considered about moving to Athens Georgia which isn’t very far from here, and it’s a college town, so there’s a lot more going on with music. It would be a lot easier to do a couple one off shows there, but it still would be a situation where it would be relatively small and I could get things done. I feel that with the tour I can get all of my craziness out of me and it’s nice to do that and then come home.

I think that’s a benefit to you personally. I mean let’s take where I’m from, Portland. Every band that comes from here has that “Portland” label on them, or someone will say they’ve got that New York sound, etc. With you being away from that, you can just be you.

ERNEST GREENE: Yes! I mean I’m sure there are certain things where that helps, such as getting inspiration or bouncing off ideas people. The hardest thing for me is that this is rural Georgia, not that progressive. People for the most part just want to listen to southern rock, something like the Allman Brothers, and that’s pretty much par for the course. I would love to get a band together and try to make that work, but I honestly don’t think I could find three other people that would be interested or had the freedom to do that. But I have friends in Atlanta, and I can just drive down there for the weekend and meet with people. I’ve had a couple business meetings up there, and it’s nice to come back here and be anonymous. It’s kind of a little haven, and that’s pretty cool.

What do you like to do outside of music? I know you are a photographer as well.

ERNEST GREENE: Ya I carry a small digital camera around, and it’s kind of just whenever the inspiration strikes sort of thing. For me, it’s more about trying to capture random things that happen; it’s more of a diary for me. I love looking at pictures. I would definitely say that I look at pictures online more than I listen to new music. I have a handful of blogs that I read. Honestly, it’s been a really boring month lately because I’ve just been in my bedroom working on music stuff, so I haven’t been out and about. That’s another thing I like about photography is that it works best when you’re around other people or actively engaging life, whereas music for me is being held up in a room. Other than that my wife and I watch tons of TV on the computer. We just finished Mad Men and Breaking Bad, and that’s about it, it’s a pretty boring life (laughs).

That doesn’t sound too bad to me.

(Washed Out is a musician from Georgia, to learn more about Washed Out and Ernest Greene, visit: http://ernestgreene.blogspot.com and http://www.myspace.com/thebabeinthewoods)

Jane Wilson

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I love when photographs invoke other senses besides just sight. When an image does more than document an object but actually captures the atmosphere of the moment. So many of Jane Wilson’s photographs capture the sound, the feeling, and the rest of what makes that environment exist. The beauty of photography is that all these places might not be anything like how they appear here, but through Wilson’s lens, they will now be remembered in such warm light.

You can learn more about Jane Wilson at www.jane-wilson.com

Viktor & Rolf DIY

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I can’t tell if this is supposed to tongue -in-cheek or passive aggressive, but I still liked it. On The Moment, Virctor & Rolf explain how to make one of their signature dresses:

1. Purchase 149 yards of fine tulle for the skirt, 44 yards of stiffer tulle for the underskirt and 2.3 miles of very thin yarn, which you will use to sew the garment by hand.

2. Dye the tulle pale green.

3. Create a stiff black inner crinoline-like structure, measured to your body, using camel’s hair and boning, in the shape of the final skirt with a cutout strip below the hips.

4. Build up the skirt, gathering the tulle layer by layer, lightly hand-stitching the layers together. Work toward a solid shape that is airy and light; fine-tune the volume. Use sharp, slim scissors to cut a perfectly straight and uniform horizontal swath in the tulle to match the cutout in the structure underneath.

5. Move on to the bodice, which you should fashion to your body using metal boning and chiffon. Hand-embroider 547 white sequins onto the front panel.

6. Attach the skirt to the bodice.

7. You’re done! And it only took 163 hours.

So Bloody So Tight

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Sunny Day in Glasgow comes out with one of the closest things to a hippie’s dream that you can see in hd.

When I’m With You

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I’m really excited I get to catch up with Best Coast later this week so I’ve been listening to their music nonstop today. It also gives me another chance to watch this infectious video again.

The Blues Contest

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As you may have heard our friends over at LOOKBOOK.nu have teamed up with H&M to put on one of the best contests out there.

From the site:

Starting February 25th, H&M stylists will choose five looks twice per week to be featured on their online campaign “The Blues.” All winners will also receive a 100 EURO (about $140 USD) gift certificate redeemable at any H&M!

To enter the contest, all you have to do is submit a look of you wearing one or more pieces of H&M and two or more blue pieces. We are looking for H&M looks in which blue is the dominant color that “pops.” Only one H&M item is necessary to qualify, but the more, the better! Don’t forget to tag what H&M piece(s) you are wearing when you’re done.

Check it out here to enter or just look at all the good user submissions

OOP

 OOP

For those of you who enjoy Criterion’s products but haven’t recieved this email, I thought I would pass it along:

Dear Criterion collectors,

Our three least favorite initials: OOP. Since we launched the Criterion Collection more than twenty-five years ago, we’ve endeavored to keep everything we’ve published in print. But despite our efforts to renew rights, we are losing a large group of titles from StudioCanal at the end of March, and we wanted to give you advance notice that our editions will be going out of print. Until we’re out of stock, we will be offering these titles at an additional $5 off on our website. The titles are going to Lionsgate, and we don’t know when they may be rereleased. As ever, we will continue to try to relicense the films so that they can rejoin the collection sometime in the future.
Here are the titles that will soon be out of print:
Alphaville
Carlos Saura’s Flamenco Trilogy (Eclipse Series 6)
Le corbeau
Coup de torchon
Diary of a Country Priest
The Fallen Idol
Forbidden Games (Criterion and Essential Art House editions)
Gervaise (Essential Art House edition)
Grand Illusion (Criterion and Essential Art House editions)
Le jour se lève (Essential Art House edition)
Last Holiday (Essential Art House edition)
Mayerling (Essential Art House edition)
The Orphic Trilogy
Peeping Tom
Pierrot le fou (DVD and Blu-ray editions)
Port of Shadows
Quai des Orfèvres
The Small Back Room
The Tales of Hoffmann (Criterion and Essential Art House editions)
Trafic
Le trou
Variety Lights (Essential Art House edition)
The White Sheik
Take note: this may be your last chance to pick up spine number 1 from the collection.

Moon Duo

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While I’m in San Francisco at the moment I thought I’d share one of my favorite bands from the area.

Find out more at www.myspace.com/moonduo

Listen:

Moon Duo – Stumbling 22nd St.

Last Night: White Denim

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White Denim walked on stage at the Doug Fir Lounge on Friday and didn’t leave till they left everything they had on the floor. It was just an amazing show that was high energy and performed with excellent precision. White Denim rocked hard, and they rocked fast, with only taking ONE twenty second break to retune a guitar, the whole thing was really unbelievable. For more info check out the website.

Tracy and Terry

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Terry Richardson and Tracy Morgan from Terry’s Diary.

VCR

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XX – VCR, 2010. It’s a great video and it’s very cute but I can’t help but wonder how many videos and images that are just like this that we’ve seen since Lost in Translation came out. It’s a new decade and I am starting to get hungry for a new aesthetic to emerge.

Gil Scott-Heron is Back

Dope

(Via Kanye)

Eric Rohmer

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Rohmer was a brilliant director and writer whose work helped push the language of cinema in leaps and bounds. Eric Rohmer died today, he was 89, RIP.

Giant by Vampire Weekend

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A Contra B-side that even further channels Paul Simon. I can’t be the only one who thinks Me and Julio Down by the School Yard is coming up next after this song ends.

Listen:

Vampire Weekend – Giant

(Via Pigeons & Planes)

Jim Jarmusch’s Golden Rules

 Jim Jarmusch’s Golden Rules

Rule #1

There are no rules. There are as many ways to make a film as there are potential filmmakers. It’s an open form. Anyway, I would personally never presume to tell anyone else what to do or how to do anything. To me that’s like telling someone else what their religious beliefs should be. Fuck that. That’s against my personal philosophy—more of a code than a set of “rules.” Therefore, disregard the “rules” you are presently reading, and instead consider them to be merely notes to myself. One should make one’s own “notes” because there is no one way to do anything. If anyone tells you there is only one way, their way, get as far away from them as possible, both physically and philosophically.

Rule #2

Don’t let the fuckers get ya. They can either help you, or not help you, but they can’t stop you. People who finance films, distribute films, promote films and exhibit films are not filmmakers. They are not interested in letting filmmakers define and dictate the way they do their business, so filmmakers should have no interest in allowing them to dictate the way a film is made. Carry a gun if necessary.

Also, avoid sycophants at all costs. There are always people around who only want to be involved in filmmaking to get rich, get famous, or get laid. Generally, they know as much about filmmaking as George W. Bush knows about hand-to-hand combat.

Rule #3

The production is there to serve the film. The film is not there to serve the production. Unfortunately, in the world of filmmaking this is almost universally backwards. The film is not being made to serve the budget, the schedule, or the resumes of those involved. Filmmakers who don’t understand this should be hung from their ankles and asked why the sky appears to be upside down.

Rule #4

Filmmaking is a collaborative process. You get the chance to work with others whose minds and ideas may be stronger than your own. Make sure they remain focused on their own function and not someone else’s job, or you’ll have a big mess. But treat all collaborators as equals and with respect. A production assistant who is holding back traffic so the crew can get a shot is no less important than the actors in the scene, the director of photography, the production designer or the director. Hierarchy is for those whose egos are inflated or out of control, or for people in the military. Those with whom you choose to collaborate, if you make good choices, can elevate the quality and content of your film to a much higher plane than any one mind could imagine on its own. If you don’t want to work with other people, go paint a painting or write a book. (And if you want to be a fucking dictator, I guess these days you just have to go into politics…).

Rule #5

Nothing is original. Steal from anywhere that resonates with inspiration or fuels your imagination. Devour old films, new films, music, books, paintings, photographs, poems, dreams, random conversations, architecture, bridges, street signs, trees, clouds, bodies of water, light and shadows. Select only things to steal from that speak directly to your soul. If you do this, your work (and theft) will be authentic. Authenticity is invaluable; originality is nonexistent. And don’t bother concealing your thievery—celebrate it if you feel like it. In any case, always remember what Jean-Luc Godard said: “It’s not where you take things from—it’s where you take them to.”

(Via Movie Maker)

Pictures From San Francisco

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A photo-journal of my family reunion in the bay area, Christmas 2009. Series in memory of Larry Sultan.

The Best of 2009: Miuccia Prada

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Letter to Jane’s favorite designer of 2009 is Miuccia Prada. She has again displayed her intellect and talent at the highest level. Between Prada and Miu Miu she set a definitive tone and influenced fashion on every level from high-end to DIY.

Noise Pop 2010 Festival

noise pop 2010 festival

2009 is almost over and it’s time to start planning for 2010. Noise Pop is part festival part industry convention and is coming to San Francisco in February. Bands to have already announced to play are: Magnetic Fields, Mark Kozelek, Rogue Wave, Atlas Sound, The Soundtrack of Our Lives, Four Tet, John Vanderslice, We Were Promised Jet Packs, Wallpaper, Zee Avi, The Limousines & Foreign Born.

Noise Pop Festival Badges go onsale Wednesday Dec 9th at Noon for $150. A limited number of badges include access to the Magnetic Fields show at the Fox Theater on Saturday February 27th, or the Herbst Theater on Monday March 1, 2010. Tickets to individual shows go onsale Saturday December 12, 2010. Noise Pop Festival news updates will also be featured on Noisepop.com

Interview With Gary Graham

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Interview with Gary GrahamInterview with Gary Graham

Designer Gary Graham’s Spring 2010 collection was one of the shining examples during New York Fashion Week this past September. With the “Fashion’s Night Out” event starting off the week, the question of how the economy would effect fashion loomed over almost every show, Graham being one of the exceptions. The CFDA/Vogue ‘09 Fashion Fund finalist put out a collection that was aggressive but not over the top. There was the evidence of tradition with looks that clearly narrated a time and place from America’s history, but there was also that transformation into something modern and attractive that kept me interested. The collection worked because of a designer’s strong vision and concept. I’ve always been so interested as to how a designer at this level works. They live in a middle ground that other creative professionals don’t have to necessarily stay at. A designer has to be part historian and part psychic at the same time. To be honest to your inspiration, present a product that is culturally relevant, and to be an expert craftsman, all in an ever changing environment is nothing short of amazing and something that honestly fascinates me. This is why I was so glad that Gary Graham agreed to be part of our ongoing Artist Interview Series. I found Graham’s commentary on fashion to be so insightful that anyone can at some level find some inspiration. It’s always great to meet someone who you know could make something interesting whether they have a budget of 5 dollars or 5,000 dollars. With all the economic worry that surrounds the creative industry right now, it’s artists like Gary Graham who show that one’s vision and concept rises above it all.

Hello, Every fashion review always uses the term “(insert designer’s name)’s woman is…” So what is the Gary Graham woman like?

She has a casual approach to glamour and definitely likes to mix disparate styles together. She has a history of Goth and punk but sort of keeps it on the back burner and expresses it in a more rustic sort of way.

How has your idea of that woman changed over the years?

I once did a show where I divided the collection into three women: a scientist, a farmer living off the land, and an isolated society lady. I think I always sort of mix these three together but now its become more precise and refined and not so aggressive.

With your Spring 2010 RTW collection, there seemed to be a big influence from silent films with a sort of Lillian Gish type of muse. What were some of the inspirations behind this collection?

Kenneth Anger’s Hollywood Babylon was a huge influence on me as a kid. Our library had a copy of the sequel, which had the photos of the Black Dahlia that I would stare at. There are some stills, which I referenced for this collection, of Anger appearing with Lillian Gish in A Midsummer Night’s Dream. I wanted to think about women from two generations coming together, one at the end of her life and one just starting out.

I also found this photo of Imogene Coco after a performance with her head down. Her posture was so different from how I remembered her on television shows, where she always seemed so up and crazy. It was the downtime of Imogene that I was trying to capture.

What would you say is your approach to fashion?

There is a transformation that happens with Tallulah Bankhead’s character in Life Boat, not just in her wardrobe but within her, when she uses her diamond bracelet as fishing lure. It’s a moment of letting go. I think that was a big influence on me—seeing glamour torn apart or worn, either by weather or life circumstances.

I sometimes look at the creation process as making problems and then finding the answers through the work you create. What are some problems in fashion you like to answer with your collection?

I often work from narratives or scenarios. For next fall I am working on constructing a Masonic order of women in Pennsylvania who controlled all the building of the roads. I am also thinking about the story of the Fox sisters, who were famous 19th-century mediums. So the problem is connecting them all with research. The research has me thinking about the history of librarians and how their roles have changed in the digital age. I’ve been talking to librarians and getting their views on the way information is being accessed and the Dewey Decimal System, so this will create ideas and new problems. For example, this might raise the question what do the librarians and the masons have to do with each other? Were they enemies or did they work together? Also, if the women masons of Pennsylvania controlled the roads, how did the politics between the men and the women play out? I can imagine women masons stitching the roadways into their quilts and then somehow they would materialize, like sorcery.

When was it that you felt like you understood fashion, that it was what you wanted to do?

I think in high school I figured out the transformative power clothing can have, especially in relation to the physical and emotional changes one goes through in those years. I feel like I’m only really getting it now, in terms of the big picture. Which really just goes back to that DEVO song, We’re Through Being Cool.

I was doing some performance type work in college and realized there was a discipline to fashion that I loved. The reality of selling things I made was also attractive. I was excited by the idea of creating a garment and it then being worn in the “real world” – the theater that happens out on the street at 2 a.m. in the pouring rain.

How did you get your start in the business?

I started in a basement on West Broadway and sold out of a store called Shack. It was owned by J. Morgan Puett, who is now just working on her artwork but she was a big influence on me in terms of fabric manipulation and garment dyeing.

You just opened your flagship store in Tribeca, how’s the response been so far?

It has been very interesting. We do not advertise so it’s all by word of mouth, neighborhood men and women, we just started a few men’s pieces, and customers that buy our clothes in other cities, and from our boutique inside ABC Carpet and Home. For me it’s really like having guerilla research. You get direct feedback and it’s all very exciting. We are planning many events in the new space, everything from dance performances to film. I am currently working with my friend Liz Collins on a sock monkey terror film that will coincide with her sock monkey sweaters. On the business side, the response has been great.

The economy has been a big topic in fashion lately and I felt some of the recent collections at New York Fashion Week seemed to reflect that with a more consumer, commercial friendly apparel. As a designer how much do economic factors go into your thought process when designing a collection?

There are different economic factors. One is the overall health of a company in terms of cash flow and then the details of margins, profit, and volume. They all affect budgets, which then allow or constrain the amount of money you get to spend on development. So this could come down to being able or not being able to buy a certain lace or beading or leather. It does not ever effect my initial inspiration or concept, which is ultimately free. No one is going to say I cannot be inspired by a Masonic woman who was a witch in Pennsylvania in 1840 but we can say as a company that maybe the apron I designed that was inspired by her with intricate lace work on it is not going to retail for under 1200 and therefore we are not going to sell very many and maybe you should think of something else in addition to this item. That’s sort of how it works. The trick is not letting the two extremes; the sellable pieces and the collection pieces cancel each other out into a void.

There have been many complaints that fashion weeks are becoming too much about entertainment instead of design. How do you feel about the current state of fashion?

Fashion along with everything else is moving so fast that its inevitable there will be a new medium that comes out of all of this. I think DIY fashion is going to take the place of so much. It would be great if home ec became relevant in a new way, reconnecting us to the physical act of making things. I think what Alice Waters is doing with slow food could be done with fashion, if only in terms of making a connection between human labor and the end product, or at the very least an appreciation of quality.

(Gary Graham is a fashion designer from NYC. You can learn more about Graham at his website www.garygrahamnyc.com)

Paris Fashion Week – Balmain Spring 2010

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I have a love/hate relationship with Balmain. On the one hand, there’s always some great fashion involved, but then again the display of excess that comes with it annoys me. It sometimes feels to me that Balmain just creates clothes to create expensive apparel. This collection didn’t really create any of that conflict for me. This was a stripped down Bailman, well maybe a more sensible Balmain is a better term. This collection still has the glitz and glamour but a kind that is more suited for this economy. The clothes are still not cheap but it’s in bad taste to flaunt that these days.

Some Self Portraits

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It happens, you don’t always have a model around when you need one so you try to work both sides of the process. After you’re done you realize why you stay behind the camera.

London Fashion Week – Topshop Unique Spring 2010

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There have been a lot of differences in London this week compared to New York last week. The first big difference between them is that London has been interesting and New York was boring. Even if you don’t like the styles coming out of London this week, you have to give it to them for at least still taking chances in this economy. Although it’s not really taking a chance when it comes to Topshop. The youth focused brand has always made a name for itself by creating apparel that can be commercial and off the wall at the same time. This collection felt a bit like Pee Wee’s Playhouse and Mad Max, humorous and chaotic. My only complaint about this show was that some of the model looked very unhealthy and anorexic. Even if they aren’t it’s just bizarre to me how there can be such an uproar about designers using plus sized models this week but some of these models look okay to them; far from a good example for young girls out there.

London Fashion Week – Christopher Kane Spring 2010

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I haven’t covered London Fashion Week since it started due to illness. Now that I’ve gotten my strength back I can start to comment again and I chose Christopher Kane’s latest collection. I’ve been a fan of Kane for a while because quite simply he knows how to use fabrics. With this collection he uses patterns as a design element and not as some arbitrary element like House of Holland. Skewing lines and shapes, using patterns to redefine a common silhouette is what I admire about Christopher Kane’s vision and his collection.

NY Fashion Week – Marc by Marc Jacobs Spring 2010

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Marc by Marc Jacobs always seems to surprise people that it’s actually good, which I still find hard to believe after so many great seasons in a row. The faux vintage mixed with high fashion styling always seems to match pop culture perfect and inspire all those people on LOOKBOOK.nu and Chictopia to try new things with their garage sale finds.